Chios Easter Rockets 2012

Our Greek Orthodox Easter celebration was one I will NEVER forget. The island of Chios, only a short ferry ride away from Cesme, Turkey is a Greek island of beauty and a bit of fame as well. Homer was born and lived here. But nowadays, the celebration of rockets on Easter has lured in random travelers from all over the world. Chios is famous for small town of Vrontados, which has two large churches in the center of the city. For five hours straight (with two 30-minute breaks) the opposing churches shoot rockets at each other consistently. Every year people die from misfiring rockets, misfortune or poor choices of where to stand.

We drove from our hotel to the seaside town of Vrontados, not knowing what to expect, but insanely excited to see these "famous rockets" we'd heard so much about. We arrived at 8pm and hitched a ride up to one of the viewing locations- where we sat and watched the rockets, completely mesmerized. Chios Rocket Fire (click on the link!) rained down upon us. Well not so much as upon us, as near us. We scurried about that hill as fast as we could to avoid both the fireworks aiming for the churches and the ridiculously irresponsible parents letting their children blast fireworks into the streets where people were congregating. Next to us, one kid hit a van with a Roman candle. We scattered quickly! Then, we hiked up the mountain to watch from a better vantage point. After continuing our move slowly upwards we made friends with a Greek family who had a stunning villa with a perfect panorama of both churches firing at each other! We walked onto their porch, smiled and they invited us to stay!

How can I describe this event? Words fail me. I was terrified. Mesmerized. Dazzled. Anxious. Fearful. Engrossed. The entire experience was completely unique and definitely kept us on our toes, seeing as at points, we were covering our heads and running. Minute after gripping minute, thousands of fireworks burst into the sky, some hitting trees, surrounding houses and cars! Most families had wrapped chicken wire around their homes to avoid serious damage. Since this tradition has been happening for years, the families and emergency teams know what to do and how to respond. Apparently, some residents are quite unhappy about the tradition, as their houses do at times set fire. We watched from the villa for the next two hours. And then....

(To be continued tomorrow...come back for the crazy end to this tale!!!)

The Duz'ers + Ashlyn (taking the photo!) 

and the rockets begin. Chios, 2012. Easter 

At this point, so many rockets are firing, we are in disbelief there aren't fires everywhere! 

the aim? Trying to hit the opposing churches bell tower! 

the fire storm continues 

Chios Easter rocket battle. It was epic. 

a shot from where our side (the winning church side) was launching rockets from the base of the hill 

A Foodie's Paradise

Toulouse, France. 

After spending a weekend in the south of France with my better half, I was both full and satiated by the aromas, tastes and sights of Toulouse. I roamed around the streets of Toulouse, weaving my way in and out of the hidey-hole streets tucked away in dark, romantic corners, finding delightful pastries, bursting with croissants and espresso sipping Frenchies. I stumbled onto a great find, the Les Restaurants de Victor Hugo Market, which is  a food lover's paradise! The moment I stepped in, I thought, there needs to be a Top Chef food challenge here. Surrounded on its outsides by a rather unattractive parking lot but also by stands and rows and columns of fresh vegetable and fruit sellers. The fruit lured me in. Fresh strawberries and plumply green grapes called my name. How could I resist? The mere temptation of culinary delights was too much to handle, and I hadn't even stepped into the market yet. My heart soared a little as I walked through the doors of the market. To my right, piles of fresh fish with their little eyes glaring right back up at me. Yes, that fresh. Crayfish and crabs and lobsters wriggled in their crates and men stood behind the ice covered fish shouting prices and negotiating in luscious French tones. To my left, the meat men roared their prices out, dominating the softer fish sellers. Sausage, pork, beef, literally any kind of meat and any part of that kind of meat was available, fresh, red, and quite frankly, so culinarily appetizing I couldn't even be grossed out about the abundance of raw meat in front of me. I was so excited to see pork! (See there is no pork in Turkey. And no pork=no bacon!) Around the corner, I found the CHEESE. I now know what addiction is. French cheese is lush. It is smelly. And it is goooood. I wandered in and out of the cheese shops, tasting little bits, getting a whiff the famous stinkers of the French cheese. Drooling a little, I was so engrossed in the cheese, that I didn't notice the fresh bakery section that had appeared in front of me. Oh yes. Bring on the croissants. And pies. And tarts. Thank heaven I don't live in this country. I would be a giant food inhaler! The fresh smells of hot bread wafted through the air, luring in its unsuspecting patrons, necessitating its purchase. Like me. I think I bought something from every pastry shop. Except the fresh crepe makers. I was able to pass by without pulling out my wallet. And then the wine sellers appeared. At this point, I was so overwhelmed by the lush Frenchness of everything, I had to resist. I just couldn't. Financial sense took me over, and I left the market, a satisfied and intrigued woman, determined to discover the generational secrets of French cuisine. I think culinary school may be in my future. 

rows upon rows of French cheese 

the first pork I've seen in months 

Classic French breakfast: espresso & croissant 

outdoor market in Toulouse, France
the vegetable sellers displaying their goods proudly

the scariest looking crabs I've ever seen...check out the spikes! 

French seafood...the possibilities are endless 

cow tongue. (which is actually a favorite of mine)

the speciality cheese stores lured me in

picnicking on the river shores of Toulouse 

the arrival of spring and all things fresh 

Nadim and I in Toulouse, 2012

Hiking in Safranbolu

There is a newly opened gorge in Safranbolu. Open for the first year to tourists, there are wooden stairs that lead down into a ravine highlighted with waterfalls, huge trees and fields of wild flowers. The old aqueduct is still beautifully intact (see photo below). When we were there, some motorcyclists were racing across it, showing off their dare-devilry. I was so in love with this place. If you go to Safranbolu, this hike will be the highlight of your trip! It led us down the ravine which snakes on for miles before leading you right back to the main city. Only thing is, to get here, you need a car.

we decided to be monkeys and climb in the trees all day

waterfalls of blissfully serene beauty 

the river running through the canyon 

the start of spring! 

the tiniest bridge of all time 

the famous aqueduct, centuries old! 

Rude

Inevitably in every persons time living abroad, there comes those AHAH moments, and there are those where you are left scratching your head, mouth gaping.

Turkish culture is one of the most beautiful in the world. The hospitality is honestly unsurpassed in any country. People here go out of there way to help foreigners, and not for a payoff or a benefit. Turks are generous almost to a fault! They give and give. And there is beauty in the honest help they provide. The list could go on and on for pages.

But at the same time, living in this culture for a time, there are certain cultural nuances that one simply cannot get used to.

Understand it? Yes. 

Accept it? Yes. 

Laugh at it? Usually 

Appreciate it? Probably not! 

Get used to it? Never

The one thing here that I honestly cannot really get, really accept or not get upset by? The custom Turks have of telling you how they feel about your personal appearance, personality or general person. Including but not limited to:

You didn't sleep, did you? Your eyes look dark with big bags.  

Your clothes aren't very nice today. 

You look fat today. 

What happened? You look awful! 

Did you mean to dye your hair that color? Do you like it? It looks strange. 

I always blush. I always get flustered and I always am hurt by it. I had an incident this week with a Turkish friend. I honestly was at the end of my patience for comments like these. When his comment hit a quite sensitive note, I just sighed loudly, said a "really?!?!" and walked away, afraid of what might come out had I stayed. Two minutes later I returned and talked to my friend. "Are you upset?" he asked. Yes! I blurted! In my culture, that is SO rude. Now you must know, this guy is a favorite of mine- a great guy and has a genuine good heart. He is the epitome of caring and kind, and he's been nothing but helpful to me all year long. Suffice it to say, he was shocked. Literally shocked.

In Turkish culture, there is honestly nothing rude with remarks like these. It is completely normal, acceptable and accepted by those who receive it. Everyone says things like this, quite often. It was quite a shock when I explained to my friends that this is highly inappropriate in American culture as small talk. In Turkey, telling someone they look awful is a way of striking up a conversation. This is probably the one thing, I cannot wrap my mind around. The one sensitive thing that I cannot get used to.

Any Turks out there reading this, care to shed some light on this culture difference?
Different opinions out there?
Thoughts?

the Sumela Monastery

Originally one of my list of the top 3 destinations I hoped to venture to while in Turkey, the Sumela Monastery didn't disappoint. They say it is worth the travel. For thousands of years, Europeans and famous travelers have made their way to this Black Sea coastal town to view the famous Monastery nestled within the Black Mountains. People told their tales to others who passed on the stories of this church city built into the mountain side. The first time I glanced a picture of the whimsically isolated place, I knew any trip to Turkey would be incomplete without it. 

Located in the Macka (pronounced Mach-ka) district, it is known as the Virgin Mary Monastery, built in her honor in 386 A.D. It was founded by two priests named Barnabus and Sophranios (what a name!) during the reign of Theodosius I.

The hike up to the Monastery is all uphill, and we encountered a bit of snow/ice which made for a journey full of surprising trips along the way. And by trips, I mean falling. To get to the Monastery, you can either drive up (pay a small fee) or walk up the side-way of the mountain, with a path there to guide you. It provided some stunning views on the way up, especially of the Black Mountains. But the real treasure is walking down the same road as the cars, that is where the money shots are. The views are stunning from across the valley, which seems to lift the monastery up into the middle of the mountain, as if resting on some invisible cloud.

Once you climb the last set of stairs into the monastery, you are greeted by a view of beautifully constructed stone-built buildings rising before your eyes in a whitewash against the dark, smokey blackness of the mountains out of which the area is carved. There is a library, a dining room, a kitchen, a chapel and several other rooms. Many are preserved with colorful frescos. Most of the frescoes weren't added until the 19th century but some date all the way back to the 17th century! The frescoes illustrate different biblical scenes and beautiful looming portraits of both Jesus and Mary. In fact, the fresco of Jesus was pretty close to how I imagine he truly looked like. We took hundreds of photos in every which way, trying to catch the beauty of the place- which was of course, impossible. The sky was an electric light blue with clouds puffy enough to make you think of cotton candy. The peaks of the mountains were drizzled with bits of snow, creating the perfect contrast with the fur green forests enveloping the mountainsides. I always thought it'd be something magnificent to be a nun- how challenging- both intellectually and spiritually. Though alas, I am clearly not suited for that profession.

The fresh mountain air abounded. On our way back down, we walked the long way, dodging cars along the way. The views were breathtaking. We ended up hitching a bit of the way down to avoid walking through all the snow at the top, but made our drivers pull over to take a picture of the stunning view. As a group decision, we decided we'd walk the rest of the way down, fearing a bit for our lives, the way these crazy old men were driving down the mountainside. All 3km down, we skipped, laughed and general merriment ensued. When we finally got on the dolmus we all passed out, exhausted by our little adventure.

How to Get to the Sumela Monastery: 

• Getting up to the Sumela Monastery is quite easy. There are several shuttle buses that leave from the city center of Trabzon. It only costs twenty turkish lira for a round trip (which happens to be about an hour bus ride on the dolumus) 
• Hire a private taxi (will probably run you about 50/60 turkish lira)
• I wouldn't suggest renting a car...too much effort and money. 

Swinging from the trees  

the view of the Monastery from the hike up 

Making it to the top! (The old aqueduct behind me)

Best friends 

the view of the village down below 

the Sumela community 

frescoes from the 19th and 17th centuries 

the Christ figure 

peephole

the amazing group of people we went with! 

electric blue sky 

the view from the walk back down 

Ash, Me, Whitney and her friend 

even farther, you can see the Monastery looking like a shelf in the mountain

Trabzon, City by the Sea

The waters shimmer form the bright sunshine. The city is decorated with statues of copper boats and dolphins joyously splashing in the gushing waters. A unique city, even among Turkish cities, Trabzon is a combination of the airs of old Turkish cities with cobbled streets and ancient walls left behind after centuries of conquests, and a a modern city of bustling traffic and fast food chains.

It was one of the first cities where after staying for a few days, I was jealous. Jealous of not living in a city by the sea with views of the Black Sea from the classrooms. Comparing a city like Trabzon to Duzce is like trying to compare New York and Gainesville. There are pluses in both cities, but there is no real comparison when it comes to culture, music, art and immersion. Famous for its Black Sea setting, fish and the Sumela Monastery, Trabzon dazzled me! We stayed with John Klingler a great Fulbrighter living there. When we arrived by plane on Friday night, the twinkling lights burning brightly in the homes of Trabzonians greeted us immediately.  After chowing down, we had a relaxed evening and slept early that night, prepping for our intense day of sight-seeing on Saturday.

Saturday morning was epic. We ate breakfast on a quaint bit of bright green grass and gravel adjacent to the Hagia Sophia museum of Trabzon. We had an al-fresco lunch overlooking the glazed blue waters of the Black Sea. We tried several regional specialties including koymak- a concoction of corn flower, butter and cheese that you must spoon in a particular way to achieve the desired consistency. Also famous for butter (yes, butter!) we tried the famous butter with ayva (quince) fruit jam. Apparently this fruit is not found in America but we have attributed an English name to this exotic fruit. It looks like a combination between an apple and a pear but has a bite to it. We relaxed and basked in the new rays of spring sunshine in the fresh beginning of the season. The gloriousness of the weather usurped the rest of the day. It reigned it all its regal beauty.

the Hagia Sophia Museum in Trabzon

the Bell Tower

famous Trabzon butter 

famous kuymak- the corn meal breakfast dish!

a deliciously fluffy omlet called "kaygana" that tastes almost as sweet as waffles! 

Me and Ash 

the frescoes restored 

the inside of the museum

the view of the Black Sea

Springtime!

Yemeni Women Fight for their Rights

A good friend of mine lives in Yemen and is helping women find and develop their voices. This video is an attempt to publicize their efforts and encourage Yemeni broadcast stations to broadcast these issues and encourage open dialogue about these issues. Take a minute to watch the video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mojENXpRGwU

Bosphorus Cruise

On Saturday, my two best friends, Ashlyn and Becky andmyself took a Bosphorus Cruise Tour. Leaving from the European side of Istanbulat Eminonou for only 25TL, you get a 4-hour ferry ride and a 3 hour romp on alittle village next to the Black Sea. Other companies do the tour for cheaper,but it is much shorter as well. Plan to spend a full day adventure, about 6/7hours. Our ferry left at 10:30am with the tickets selling out by 9:50!

The boat ride is rather magnificent. With both coveredsections and sections of the boat exposed to the elements, we were lucky enough to sitoutside and enjoy the warm sunshine, basking in the bright light and views ofthe shoreline. Everything from tiny boathouses and summer villas to loomingcastles are within plain view. The seagulls follow the boat, swooping up anddown with the currents of the wind, waiting to tail-dive to catch a piece ofbread thrown by the children. The children whoop with laughter, delighted theseagulls take an interest in their little sport of throwing bread. Men walkaround the ship selling tea, simit (little circle shaped, sesame coveredbreads) and fresh yogurt from the world famous yogurt village! Called MesurKanlica Yogurt, this famous yogurt boasts a thick layer of cream coating thetop of the yogurt. And just to top it all of, they provide little packets of powdered sugar to sweeten the deal! A huge yogurt cup for only 2TL! (Just do it!) 

We disembarked at Anadolu Kavagi, the last stop on the boattour and our destination. Having done this tour two years prior, on my firstvisit to Istanbul, I had repeat deja-vu the entire trip. I have a photographicmemory, and for that reason can easily navigate any city I’ve previously beento, if I’ve seen that place. Navigating the little side streets of the tinyvillage was a breeze. The houses leaning against the shores of the water, withhidden little boathouses underneath the house it self brought me immediatelyback. Dozens of fresh fish restaurants lined the streets and their vendorscalled out to their newly arrived ferry riders. Local craftsmen sold strings ofhand carved necklaces and works of art were proudly displayed in brightlycolored wooden cases, painted warm summer colors of topaz, royal blue, plum andcoral. We bought beautiful pieces of jewelry and proceeded to indulge in somelunch. Having balik ekmek (fish bread) in Istanbul is a MUST for any visitor.The fish vendors grill up the fish in front of you and flick the bones out inless than twenty seconds. They slop on some onions, salad and seasoning, andyou’ve got yourself a sandwich! 

We made our way up to the castle sitting atop the hill overlooking the Black Sea. It is my favorite view of Istanbul. A panoramic view of the mouth of the Black Sea and the villages of Istanbul trailing all the way until the Black Sea- the view cannot be beat. A backdrop of an old castle, which you can climb, buffers the view of the crystal blue sky, the lusciously green hills and the sparkling crystalline waters of the Bosphorus. We sat atop the the crumbling wall of surrounding the castle and drank in the beauty of the view before us. It was one of those moments in life where nothing is anything but perfect. Life is all a tapestry of beautifully painted colors, emotions and experiences. At the moment, life was blissful. 

Our sail back to Eminonou was one of laughter and memories.The suns rays coated the boat like a layer of frosting, enveloping us in thelong awaited warmth of spring. An hour and a half later, we disembarked againand began another adventure around Sultanahmet. If you have a full day while inIstanbul, I highly recommend a Bosphorus cruise- it is always the highlight ofmy time in Istanbul. There is something mystically entrancing about sailingalong the shores of thousands of years of history and slowly gliding by.  

Dolmabahce Palace, waterfront view 

making our way up the Boshporus

Fishing villages line the coasts

a Stunning view of the Black Sea 

Turkish flag waving proudly 

my other halves- even if you can only have one... I  have three.

the ruined castle